The Phylloxera Festival and the birth of cava
Cava is a world-famous sparkling wine that no important meal or celebration can be without. It’s part of our everyday life, a fixture of the dining table. As children we wonder whether those bubbles we aren’t allowed to taste will tickle our mouths. But have you ever wondered how and why cava began to be produced in the Penedès area? The story takes us to Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, covering dramatic events of the 19th-century history when phylloxera wiped out 90% of Europe’s vineyards...
The first instance of the arrival of phylloxera in Sant Sadurní was recorded on 15 October 1887, specifically on an estate in Espiells whose vineyards were the first to be damaged by the insect. But this was no one-off. The plague had reached Europe from America 40 years earlier, carried across the Atlantic by ships. It first affected France but quickly spread across Europe.
Returning to its effects in Sant Sadurní, despite the local winemakers’ attempts to contain the ravages of phylloxera, by 1892 it had already impacted 90% of the vineyards in the area. The insects killed the grapevines, which meant that harvests were poor and wine production plummeted. Gradually, many inhabitants of the municipality and the surrounding area saw their way of life threatened and were forced to migrate to Barcelona and other places to find work in factories.
By the end of 1893, the entire grape harvest in the Penedès region was decimated. But some people refused to be defeated by these difficulties. A group of individuals were determined to find a solution to the phylloxera problem. Ruling out the use of chemicals, they finally opted for a drastic measure: planting new vineyards with an American variety that was immune to the insects.
The idea came from seven local businessmen who became known as “The Seven Sages of Greece”. These men were notable for their ability to innovate in times of crisis, in this instance coming up with a solution to the phylloxera plague.
It was a long process, not only in terms of the actual planting of the vineyards but also in respect of obtaining a good harvest, which took years. But “The Seven Sages of Greece” saw a way out of this difficult situation. Shortly before the arrival of phylloxera, cava production in the region had begun in small quantities. The new grape varieties planted after the phylloxera plague provided excellent harvests for producing these sparkling wines.
So, the large-scale production of cava in Penedès proved the best path to recovery after the phylloxera crisis. Thanks to the quality of the product and the drive of local entrepreneurs, it conquered international markets and achieved a level of fame it still enjoys today.
The Phylloxera Festival in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia commemorates the events that transformed the wine culture of the region. The struggle between the insects and the town’s 19th-century inhabitants is reenacted through a parade. It’s a spectacle of fireworks and music in which 30 fil·loxeretes (“little phylloxerae”) march through the streets of Sant Sadurní, representing the spread of the plague. At the end, they gather with their leader, Fil·loxera, and head to Plaça de l'Església.
There, they meet the actors playing the townspeople and the Seven Sages, who manage to find a solution to the plague in a grand finale. This parade takes place at night, but during the day on 7 and 8 September, all sorts of other activities are organised as part of the celebration. The highlight is the Children's Phylloxera Festival, an adaptation of the spectacle at a more suitable time for the little ones.
Now you’ve got the perfect excuse to discover a festival that celebrates the most quintessential of Catalan products: cava!
More information:
Phylloxera Festival History of Phylloxera
Penedès Tourist Board
D.O Cava